Umbria Wine Tour – Cantina Number One: Rialto

•October 5, 2010 • 1 Comment

Mark from Gusto Wine Tours came to pick us up at 9am on Tuesday, September 21.  We all loaded ourselves into the van and we were off about a good hour or so into the Umbrian countryside. After some windy and bumpy roads, we come to our first cantina: Rialto (the website is in Italian, so you’ll have to get something to translate it into English).  We had a nice, sunny day, perfect for taking in the scenery and drinking some good, complex wines.

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And then, this guy shows up:

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The guy on the left is our guide, Mark.  The guy on the right…he’s the winemaker: Eraldo Dentici.  Looks like he just got home from the club right?  Don’t let looks fool you.  This guy has grown up surrounded by this.  It’s in his blood (we also found out he has an identical twin brother).  We head on down to where all the magic happens.  We got to smell some of the wines that weren’t ready yet (Mark vouches for Eraldo’s Chardonnay, pictured) and were able to see the separation between the skins and the liquid in the tanks.

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I admit, sitting in the back of the van on a slightly empty stomach wasn’t the best idea.  I was a bit woozy and wasn’t feeling too well when we were going around the small cantina.  But then, I was struck with this vision:

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Nothing like a little bit of wine and cured meats and cheese to make one feel so much better.  The cheese was definitely necessary, because with the really hearty Sagrantino wine we tried, we needed something to stand up to it.  It was the most amazing pairing I think I have ever had.  We tried a couple of his wines: Grechetto (a white Umbrian wine), Rosso (a mix of grapes), Sagrantino (a very full-flavored grape) and his Passito dessert wine which is made out of the Sagrantino grapes, but they’re dried.  Every one of his wines were amazing.  The Sagrantino and dessert wine especially.  The Passito wasn’t as sweet as Port or any other red dessert wine that you can find here.  Unfortunately, his Chardonnay wasn’t quite ready yet, but Mark says it’s the best one he’s ever had.  And from what we sampled, I will probably agree.  What was awesome, is that the tastes we got were HUGE.  He also cleaned our glasses with a bit of the wine we were about to try.  Amazing.  Only in Italy and only in these small cantinas that only produce maybe about 60,000 bottles a year.  In the grand scheme of things, that’s really not a lot.

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Where the magic happens.

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Dr. Awesome is so happy.

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Look how dark the Sagrantino is.

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After we finish some tastings and buy some bottles, we make our way outside to see some interesting things we didn’t notice on the way in.

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Like a beehive.

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and me randomly walking somewhere

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Now, I’m sure you’re wondering what this is.  Well, under this tarp, I believe are the grape scraps.  They’re going to use this for making grappa.  I think you need a special license to make grappa, so the small places like this send their scraps out to specialty places to have it done.  Interesting.

And here, we come to the end of Cantina Rialto.  I have to say that out of the three, I loved this place the best.  It was also the first time I had really gotten to try complex wines and a grape (sagrantino) that I’ve never had before.  A real educational and tipsy experience.

I’m sure I’ll be repeating myself for the next one or two blog posts about the cantinas that I loved this tour.  We got to see a part of Umbria that I wouldn’t have otherwise.  It’s a real amazing place and is also very up and coming.  People are always running to Tuscany, but they should really take their time and go through Umbria.  The food, the people, the wine and the scenery are amazing.

Italia, The Feasting Continues! – Days 2 & 3

•September 30, 2010 • Leave a Comment

I’m combining days two and three into one post since we pretty much just chilled around the villa.  I know all the pretty is going to be too much to handle, but I’m still going to bombard you with a ton of photos…you were warned.

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Green Fig Fresh figs straight off the fig tree.

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Since lounging is sooooo hard, Dr. Awesome’s mom hooked up the house with a chef to cook for everyone.  His name is Stefano and he brought his son along to help him out.  It’s a hard job cooking for 13 people.

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IMG_0042 Paul is setting the mood lighting in the dinning room/second kitchen.

IMG_0033 Some of the grilled veggies with freshly made focaccia bread.

Please excuse the photos. Because of the lighting, the flash made things too bright and then not having the flash made them a little too dark. I had no happy medium.

The antipasto.
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Then of course, a pasta dish…freshly made with a pesto sauce, basil and tomatoes.
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Veal with peppercorns and grilled zucchini and eggplant.  I was very into my wine and wasn’t listening too closely to what the chef said what was on top of the veal.  I thought they were capers and put a fork-full in my mouth. Yeah, was very surprised to find out that they weren’t capers.
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Of course, there was tiramisu. I ated it.
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And then the big payday
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The meal was delicious and, as usual, we were all nicely drunk from Carlo’s wine.  It was nice to just chill and get situated.  The dinner was on Sunday.  On Monday, we went into town to try and buy some meat from Paolo’s shop for grilling, but we ended up being too late and ran over to the local supermarket.  I have to say, the butcher counter at the store was very impressive.  They had a whole window where you could see the carcasses hanging and all the meat showcased was bright red.  We got a couple of somewhat thickly cut steaks.

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They also had an offal section. Here’s a photo of a whole tongue.
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The market wasn’t crowded at all and they didn’t have too too much in terms of produce.  I think the reason is that people just make sure they get to their local shops to buy the fresh produce there.  But it’s really amazing to see that the quality of the meat was top notch and you could see where it was coming from, unlike grocery stores here.

The next day, Tuesday, was our wine tour around Umbria.  I’m going to split that into two or three posts because I took a ton of photos at each place.  They all had something unique and different to offer.  I think I’ve become a bit of a wine snob because of it.  I guess there are worse things to happen 🙂

Day 1 Of The Italian Chronicles – da Carlo And Some Of The Medieval City Of Orvieto, Italy

•September 29, 2010 • Leave a Comment

It’s hard to figure out where to start these posts about my trip to Italy, so I figured, why not start at the beginning?  Seems logical.  Dr. Awesome and I left NYC on Friday, September 17 and flew Air Canada (ugh, you’ll hear more about that crap storm later on) to Rome.  We landed the next day and met up with our friends Jason, Jill, Kevin and Jess at the rental car center.  An hour and a half later, the awesome seven-seater (debatable) Ford Galaxy was ours for the week.  I took the photo below from the sixth seat in the car.  The seventh was taken up by luggage.

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After an hour and a half car ride later (maybe a little more because we went around in circles for a bit) we landed at our beautiful villa in the countryside.  This place is seriously out in the middle of nowhere.  The directions told us that the paved road would eventually become dirt.  This was true.

Since we all needed to stay up to get over the jet lag, we decided to venture into town for a nice lunch and some food shopping since everything would be closed on Sunday.  Orvieto is situated on the top of a cliff side, so we drove all the way to the top.  Hopefully, you can tell from this photo that I took from the moving car.

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We walked up almost to the center of town, looking for a place off the beaten path to try.

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While Jason and Jill went down one alley, Kevin went down another and found a place with some outdoor seating.  We walked over and they said that they were closing, but then asked where we were from and we said, “NYC” and Carlo, the chef/proprietor of the place, says, “ok sit down!!!”  His girlfriend, who is Belgian and speaks perfect English, was the waitress and asked if we’d like to start off with some antipasto.  We all said yes and had some red and white house wine, which was amazing!  Shortly after, plate after plate of cured meats, bruschetta and pate came out.

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You’d think we’d be done after all that, but of course not.  We all had pasta.  Freshly made pasta, which, let me tell you, makes all the difference.  I’m so spoiled from this trip that I’m going to have to make my own pasta from now on.  Some of us ordered the fennel and cherry tomato sauce while the rest ordered the white truffle and porcini sauce.

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We of course had to have some dessert, so we tried their tiramisu, which was cakeless and their cherry pie.  The waitress also suggested a drink called Vin Santo, which is a dessert wine.

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Since this was such an amazing meal and they were local, we asked where we would be able to buy some provisional stuff, like eggs, milk, Vin Santo, wine, etc.  Carlo was so awesome that he sold us two jugs of the wine which were made with his grapes.  He also sold us some Vin Santo, gave us two boxes of milk for free and then called the butcher that he uses and asked him to stay open for us to get some meat and eggs.  Watching the interaction between him and his mother (yup, Italian mama was there of course) was hilarious.  She was going to take us to the butcher when Carlo said “They’re from New York City! There’s like three streets in Orvieto!”

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Yesssssss

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From left to right: Belgian girlfriend, Carlo, Carlo’s Mama.

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We said our goodbyes and made our way down to Paolo’s organic butcher shop, since we were kinda crimping his siesta. We got so much cured meat and sausages and a cheese that smelled and tasted like a barnyard.  Little did we know that Paolo was also the caretaker of the villa.  We were all surprised to see him cleaning the pool one day.  I love Italy.

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For dinner that night, we stayed at the villa and ate a bunch of cured meat and cheese that others brought and threw back a jug and a couple of bottles of wine.  By the time we were done, it was past 10pm and were ready for bed.

Tomorrow, I’ll post photos of the villa and the amazing dinner that was cooked for us at the villa by a chef and his son.

A Green Fig Straight From The Tree – A Sneak Peek Of What’s To Come!

•September 29, 2010 • Leave a Comment

Green Fig, originally uploaded by iyumnewyork.

Here’s a little taste for everyone. This is a photo I took after taking a bite out of a fresh green fig from the fig tree in the backyard of the villa. I never had green figs before, only black. It was the most juicy and sweet fig I’ve ever had. What’s cool is that later in the week, we found another fig tree, and this one had the black variety. I was able to compare and as far as fresh figs go, green wins. I do like the black ones though when they’re used in desserts. Man, if I didn’t live in the concrete jungle, a fig tree would definitely be in order.

Stay tuned for a full entry tonight on my Italy food adventures!

Back from Italia!

•September 26, 2010 • 1 Comment

Hello all!  I’m back from Italy.  I was supposed to get in last night, but due to our flight being delayed from Rome and Air Canada and the Montreal Airport not being very helpful, we had to stay overnight in Montreal.  It’s good to be home, but there were many YUMs had!  We had the freshest food and the greatest ingredients imaginable.  It’s a really amazing country in terms of that.  But the drivers, not so much.  I’ll be updating a couple of times this week with photos of all the places we went to and the meals we had, including some really small, unknown wineries that deserve recognition.  Tuscany is so last year.  Umbria is where it’s at!